Gargoyle Gecko Care Guide

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Gargoyle Gecko. If cared for properly, gargoyle gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new gargoyle gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a gargoyle gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a gargoyle gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Juvenile Setup

Housing Your Gargoyle Gecko

Gargoyle geckos are arboreal, meaning they live up off the ground and in trees and bushes. So having plenty of space to climb is more important than having a lot of floor space.

I would recommend a Glass Exo Terra Enclosure.

Never keep more than one male gargoyle gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Adult Setup

Setting up a Bio-Active Gargoyle Gecko Enclosure (video is of my crested gecko but would be the same for a gargoyle gecko)

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a gargoyle gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many gargoyle gecko keepers use coconut husk but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Gargoyle geckos only require temperatures to be 74 to 78 degrees, so room temperature is fine for these guys, but never let your enclosure get above 78 degrees.

Lighting

Gargoyle geckos  do not require any special lighting because they are nocturnal lizards. They do not require any UVB lighting but in the wild, they are subject to some filtered UVB while they are sleeping. It is my opinion that exposing them to a small amount of UVB during the day will only improve their health. It certainly won't hurt them. You can use a low wattage bulb for a few hours a day.

Furniture

Items to include in your gargoyle gecko enclosure are:

Hides or Cork Rounds stood on end make excellent places for sleeping.

Reptile Ledge for food and water. Your gargoyle gecko will feel more secure if they can eat up off the ground.

Branches and limbs for climbing

Plants, lots of plants, for climbing and hiding.

Keeping your Gargoyle Gecko Hydrated

Gargoyle geckos do not require a lot of humidity but they do require some. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water in the enclosure and misting them a couple times a day should suffice.

Diet

Gargoyle geckos diet mainly consists pre-packaged, powdered food that is simply mixed with water. There are several brands out there but I recommend Repashy. There are some other brands that are getting good reviews but so far mine eat the Repashy the best.

You can also give your gargoyle gecko crickets once a week. Be sure they are no bigger than the space between the geckos eyes.

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your gargoyle gecko by biting it while it sleeps.

Glass Tree Frog Care

Glass tree frogs are named such, due to their semitransparent skin, mainly on their belly, which allows for the viewing of some of their internal organs. There are over 100 different species of the glass tree frog. Type of species will determine just how much of the organs you will be able to see. On some species, you will also be able to see their bones.

Glass tree frogs are not only Nocturnal and arboreal, they are also riparian, meaning they live near streams. It is important to put a great deal of planning and care into setting up their captive environment, so for this reason, I would not recommend this frog to a beginning frog keeper.

Housing Your Glass Tree Frog

If you want to keep your Glass Tree Frog happy and healthy, you should try to simulate their natural habitat as closely as possible, as shown in the following video:

The size enclosure you choose should be based on how many frogs you intend to have. You should allow 4 gallons of space per frog as their average size ranges from 1 - 3 inches. This will give the frogs plenty of space without being on top of each other. The height of the enclosure should be one and half times the width and depth of the tank. A 12 x 12 x 18 would do fine for 1 -2 frogs and an 18 x 18 x 24 would do well for 3 - 4. Whatever tank you decide to use, be sure it has a screen top. Proper ventilation is extremely import for glass tree frogs.

In the wild, glass tree frogs live near running streams, though they are not semi-aquatic frogs, they do spend a small amount of time just sitting in the water enjoying the moving current. To simulate their natural environment, you will need to have a pump, filter or waterfall in order to simulate a running stream. Limit the stream to 1/3 of the bottom space.

2/3's of the bottom space will need to be land area. This can be achieved in several different ways. In my opinion, the best way to do this, is to install a divider between the water and land, using plexi-glass and aquarium sealant. This will make it much easier on you when it comes to maintenance. Another way would be to use large rocks to divide the land and water, with some type of drainage layer under the substrate on the land side.

Substrate

For substrate, I would recommend using plain old dirt or garden soil, that can be purchased at any home supply store. Be sure to buy organic, fertilizer and pesticide free soil. In order to help keep humidity levels up, cover the soil with moss. I suggest a pillow moss. If you choose to use sphagnum moss, be sure to smash it down flat. Glass tree frogs hunt by pouncing on their pray. Though they are incredibly accurate, you do not want to risk them getting the moss caught in their mouth along with their food.

Humidity

Glass tree frogs are native to tropical area,s therefore require high humidity in their captive environments. Humidity levels should be kept in the range of 70 - 80%. Having a running stream in the enclosure will contribute to the humidity levels but will not be enough to maintain the proper range. In order to keep the humidity levels up, you will need to mist the enclosure a couple times per day.

Lighting

In order to maintain a healthy ecosystem, you will need to provide day/night cycle for your glass tree frogs. 12 hours on and 12 hours off is a good place to start. Depending on whether or not you choose to have live plants in the enclosure, will determine what type of bulb you will need to use. Be careful not to use a bulb that will overheat the enclosure. Glass tree frogs do not require any special heating. They are fine at room temperature, provided the temperature in your house remains in the mid 70's.

Furnishings

Due to their arboreal nature, glass tree frogs require plenty of branches, vines and plants to climb on. Whether you choose live or fake plants, be sure and provide broad leaf plants. Glass tree frogs like to sit on the leaves and spy out their prey from above. You will also need to include some foliage on the ground level as well. This will provide your frog with some security. A small cork round works well for a hide as well.

Diet

Glass tree frogs, despite their size, have very large appetites. When they are babies and juveniles, they will need to be fed fruit flies, a lot of fruit flies. As they grow, they can be fed size appropriate crickets. Size appropriate meaning, no larger than the space between their eyes.

In Conclusion

Glass tree frogs are very fascinating creatures but, do not expect to see much of them. They are very shy and typically only come out when all the lights are out. You might get lucky every now and then and see them come out at dawn to start hunting but, if they see you, they will quickly find a safe place to hide.

Red Ackies Monitor Care Sheet

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Red Ackies Monitor. If cared for properly, red Ackies Monitors can live 15 to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new Red Ackies Monitor?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a Red Ackies Monitor?

Can you afford the upkeep of a Red Ackies Monitor?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Red Ackies Monitor

Red Ackies Monitors are very active lizards and therefore require a fairly large enclosure in order to give them space to explore and maintain a good temperature gradient. There must be a hot side for basking and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

Minimum Enclosure sizes:

48" x 24" x 24" for 1 Adult
30" x 18" x 36" for 1 Baby

The more space the better and always use a wooden enclosure. Glass enclosures, such as, an aquarium, will not hold in the heat or moisture, nor will it hold the amount of substrate necessary to house these monitors properly.  Screen lids are not recommended so be sure to provide adequate ventilation by installing an air vent on both sides of the enclosure to maintain good air flow. 

Substrate

The natural habitat of the Red Ackies Monitor is the scrublands of mainly Western Australia, the Northern Territory and Queensland. They may come from a hot climate, but that does not mean they live on sand. They actually live near rocky outcroppings that have plenty of cracks and crevices they can retreat into for safety or to escape the heat.

The best substrate you can give a Red Ackies Monitor is just plain old dirt. for babies you can use paper towels or newspaper in order to monitor their food intake and feces output. They do enjoy burrowing so for adults, you will need to provide an 8-12 inch layer of substrate.

Other substrate options include a 50 - 50 mixture of non-toxic play sand and pesticide free dirt or lightly compressed Eco Earth (coconut fiber).

Heating

Red Ackies Monitors require a wide temperature gradient. The surface temperature at the basking spot should be 130 – 150 degrees for adults and approximately 120 degrees for babies. The cool side should range from the mid 70's to  80 degrees, no higher. Night time basking temperatures should be 110 - 120 degrees. These temperatures can be achieved by using a brooder bulb or halogen bulb, pointing straight down, directly over the basking spot. Ceramic heaters work well to keep night time temperatures up. For more control over heat, use a fixture with a dimmer switch built in or wire the light directly to a dimmer switch. Also, make sure the basking spot is the same approximate size as the lizard.

Lighting

Lighting requirements for Red Ackies are not of the same importance as they are with other reptiles. You can offer a day/night lighting cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off or leave them on 24/7. If you are leaving them on 24/7 and you notice your monitor seems a little stressed, and out in the open during the night, switch to a 12 cycle.

There is some debate on whether Red Ackies need UVB lighting. Some research shows, with the proper diet, a Red Ackies will get all the D3 and calcium it requires. It is my opinion, that UVB can be beneficial and it's better to err on the side of caution and provide UVB lighting, it can't hurt.

Furniture

Red Ackies Monitors, being the active and inquisitive lizards they are, will utilize every bit of space you give them. Fill their enclosure with plenty of things they can climb on, over and under. Use the height of the tank as well as a good portion of the floor space.

Many Red Ackies Monitor keepers build a Retes stack directly under the backing bulb. This allows for many temperature choices for your monitor.

Include; logs, branches, cork bark, plants and rocks (rocks should be large enough that your monitor cannot move them, so as to eliminate any risk of injury).

Also, be sure to include a water bowl large enough for the monitor lay in. It may or may not use it, but it's best to give it the option.

Humidity

The humidity in your Red Ackies enclosure should range between 50% - 60%. Anything higher could promote bacteria growth and lead to health problems, anything lower could cause shedding problems and other health issues. Lightly misting the substrate a couple times per day or a good soaking once a week, should keep the humidity at the appropriate levels.

Using a digital hydrometer inside the enclosure will help you monitor the humidity and ensure you are meeting the needs of your Red Ackies.

Diet

Red Ackies Monitors are carnivores, meaning they only eat meat. Their diet should consist of 80% - 85% insects and 15% - 20% whole prey items such as, pinky mice.

Insects that can be fed include, dubia roaches (recommended) mealworms, supperworms (as a treat), crickets.

Adults should be fed daily. Dust insects with Calcium with D3 every other day unless you are providing UVB, then dust 3 - 4 times per week. Dust with a multi-vitamin on the days between.

Young monitors should be fed daily as well. Dust insects with calcium with D3 daily unless you are providing UVB, then dust every other day.

Blue Tongue Skink Shopping List

If you have decided on a Blue Tongue Skink as your new pet reptile, then you will need to gather up all the items you will need to get an enclosure set up, prior to bring home your new friend.

Here, I have put together a shopping list of the basic items you will need to get started:

Necessary Basic Items

Size Appropriate Enclosure

Substrate - Reptile Carpet (recommended)

Light Fixture

UVB/Heat Bulb

Reptile Hides - Several

Branches

Plants

Food and Water Bowls

Temperature and Humidity Gauges

Water Conditioner

Calcium Supplement

Multivitamin Supplement

Spray Bottle for Misting

Varity of food items:

Greens, Vegetables, Fruit
Insects - Mealworms, Superworms, Waxworms, Silkworms, Butterworms
Meat - Cooked chicken, beef, Turkey, Canned cat food, small mice

Additional Items to Consider

These items are not necessarily must have items but they do make for more convenience:

Power strip with Timer for Lights

Temperature Controller

Automatic Misting System

F10 Disinfectant



I hope this list gets you and your new Blue Tongue Skink off to a great start!
Good luck and enjoy!

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Vietnamese Mossy Frog Care Sheet

Vietnamese Mossy Frogs are experts when it comes to camouflage. Due to their coloring and unique skin texture, it can be difficult to see them when they are chilling on a tree or in vegetation on the ground near a stream, because they look like a clump of moss, especially when they have their eyes closed.

These frogs are relatively rare and can be hard to come by. If you do get lucky enough to locate some, you will pay an average of $100 a piece for them. They are actually a protected species in their native land of Vietnam.

Mossy frogs spend a lot of time in one place but at times can be very active as well, especially at feeding time. They sometimes remind me of a cat getting ready to pounce on a mouse. I've seen them jump from the top of one end of the tank, to the bottom at the opposite end of the tank to get a cricket!

As long as you understand their needs, the are not very difficult to care.

Housing Your Mossy Frog

If you want to keep your Mossy Frog happy and healthy, you should try to simulate their natural habitat as closely as possible.

The size tank you choose should be based on how many frogs you intend to have. You should allow 4 gallons of space per frog as their average size is 2 - 2 1/2 inches, and they are rather active at times. This will give the frogs plenty of space without being on top of each other. The videos below show a 20 gallon long tank that houses 5 frogs.

Tank Maintenance Video

Mossy Frog Care Video

Mossy frogs are semi-aquatic and should be supplied with both land and water of equal parts. Your land area should slope down into the shallow water side of the tank in order to make it easy for the frogs to make their way out of the water. The water side of the tank should be no more than a few inches deep. The frogs prefer to sit in water with a moving current, so you will need to have a pump, filter or waterfall that will simulate a running stream.

In my tank, shown above, I chose to split the land area and the water area into equal parts. In the center of the tank I installed a plexi-glass with aquarium sealant to divide water from land. For the land side, I installed a false bottom for drainage purposes and a layer of organic dirt and some moss. 

The left side of the tank, the water side, has a filter and waterfall in the back that creates a current that flows around to the front of the tank and a piece of Mopani wood to slow the current before it get to the land area. This gives the frogs the choice of calm water or current.

The tank the videos above is a great setup for juvenile frogs because, the juveniles tend to spend the majority of their time up off the ground when they are not in the water. The adults tend to migrate more to the land and water areas. For this reason, you will need to plan on providing a larger, longer tank for adults.

Water Quality

Be sure to only use distilled water or tap water that has been treated with a water conditioner such as Reptisafe. 

These frogs tend to do better when you do partial water changes, rather than draining the tank and refilling. Simple use and aquarium vacuum once a week to remove half the water, then replace.

Temperature and Lighting

Mossy frogs do not have any special requirements as far as temperature and lighting. They are perfectly fine with room temperature. I chose to provide lighting simply for esthetic reasons.

A couple things to keep in mind if you plan on using a light; be care not to use a light that is going to raise the temperature more that a degrees or two, you don't want to overheat your frogs, and only install the light along the back of the tank or over the end of the tank that you will not be feeding the frogs at. If they stare into the light while hunting their prey, it could damage their eyesight.

Filter

In order to keep the water fresh and clean, you will need to install An in the water filter. Mossy frogs prefer to relax in  water with a current. Most filters you will find are rather tall, so it's simple to add some rocks in front of the filter so the water flows down and creates a current. The steeper the rocks are, the faster the current. Be care though, you don't want a current that is so strong the frogs can't sit still in it.  

Referring back to the photo of my tank, you can see the method I used. I stacked the large flat rocks to create a running waterfall, then I installed a piece of Mopani Wood to obstruct the water flow before it reached the land area. Mopani wood works very well in this type of tank because it is heavy and will just sit on the bottom of the tank, rather than float.

Tank Furnishings

You will want to provide at least one hide for your frogs. Sometimes they just want to have a little privacy. In my tank, there is a climbing log on the land side that is hollow, so it serves two purposes, one as a hide and two, as a climbing log.

Mossy frogs do like to climb and they seem to enjoy pouncing on their prey from above, so you will need to include plants, vines and logs for them to perch on.

Diet

The Mossy frog diet will mainly consist of small crickets. Make sure the crickets you provide are no larger than the space between their eyes. This will prevent a possible choking hazard. Offer 3-4 crickets per frog, three to four times a week. A couple of times a month, you will want to provide a different food source for variety such as, wax worms, earth worms cut into small pieces and black worms. The worms will need to be fed from a shallow dish. Do not drop them into the tank or water.

Supplements

Your frogs are what they eat so be sure to provide them with good nutrition. You can dust their insects with a high quality nutritional supplement or you can gut load the insects with a highly nutritious diet such as Fluker's High-Calcium Cricket Diet  which is what I use.

In Conclusion:

Vietnamese Mossy Frogs are a bit complex to set up but, once they are set up, are relatively easy to care for. With the proper maintenance and diet, they will provide you with many years of enjoyment.

Blue Tongue Skink Cage Maintenance

Proper cage maintenance plays an important role in keeping your blue tongue skink healthy. Keeping your skink in a clean healthy environment will virtually eliminate many of the health issues skinks are susceptible to such as, parasites, stomatitis, mites, scale rot and respiratory infections.

Daily Spot Cleaning

Simply use toilet paper or paper towels to remove fecal matter and the substrate surrounding it. If you have a juvenile skink, then you probably already know, they seem to enjoy showing off their artwork by leaving you poop murals almost on a daily basis. In this case, you can use hot water with a little soap to clean, but be sure to rinse the area very well.

You can also use a product called F10 SC. This is a disinfectant used by veterinarians and is safe for all animals, including reptiles. It kills all types of bacteria, fungi and spores. In fact, this is what I have been using for several years and highly recommend it. It is a safe and effective way to disinfect your skinks enclosure without any fear of leaving harmful residue behind, as long as you dilute it correctly. I keep a spray bottle of the diluted F10 SC solution and a roll of paper towels in every room I have animals in, just for convenience.

Monthly Cage Maintenance

Once a month or so, you will need to break down the entire enclosure and give it a thorough cleaning. Remove all furniture, food and water bowls and substrate. The easiest way I have found to remove the substrate is to just vacuum it out with a shop vac. 

Clean the tank with hot soapy water and rinse well. Be sure not to leave any soapy residue behind. Disinfect with F10 SC if you have it. Many people use a mild bleach/water mixture to disinfect but you have to be very diligent in rinsing if you choose to go this route. Be sure there isn't any smell of the bleach left in the tank before you put you skink back inside.

Scrub all furnishings prior to replacing them as well. You may find that some of your furnishing can simply be put in the dishwasher, even the rocks. You might want to give them a quick rinse before hand.

Schedule Maintenance

The easiest way to remember to do cage maintenance is to put yourself on a schedule, and stick to it.

For daily cleaning, pick a time that you know will work for you every day. Maybe you are an early riser and want to do your cleaning first thing in the morning before leaving the house or maybe evenings work better for you. Which ever it is, pick a time and make it part of your daily routine. If you clean at the same time everyday, it will just become habit.

For monthly cage breakdown, choose a day of the month, whether it be the 1st, 15th or the 30th, break the enclosure down on the same day every month. Then you won't have to try to remember when the last cleaning took place.

Another easy way to remember when it's time for a complete breakdown is to clean after each shed, which would be every 4-6 weeks, and is fine as long as you are doing daily cage maintenance.

In Conclusion

Your blue tongue skink is relying on you 100% when it comes to its health. It doesn't matter if you are tired, busy, sick or just feeling lazy, it is your responsibility to keep your skink happy and healthy. Get yourself into a routine that works for you and your skink, and stick to it.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Common Blue Tongue Skink Health Issues

Is My Blue Tongue Skink Sick?

If you notice some changes in your blue tongue skinks behavior or appearance, there may be a medical reason for it.

Below your will find a list of the most common health issues that can affect a blue tongue skink.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Health Issue	Symptoms	Description	How to Correct the Problem
Raw Nose	Irritated Raw Bleeding Nose	Typically found in wild-caught skinks. Caused from rubbing the sides of tank.	Cover three sides of the tank so help the skink feel more secure. Check to make the heat and humidity levels are correct.
Shedding Problems	Stuck shed on Toes, Mouth, Tail, Lips and ears	Low humidity can cause shedding problems on some areas of the skink and may build up over time. If left untreated, can cause infection and permanent damage.	Try bathing the skink to soften the  shed. Use your fingernails to gently remove stuck shed.
Parasites	Tiny white worms seen in fecal matter	Usually isn't a problem in captive bred skinks. Wild -caught skinks may have them when you purchase the animal. Also caused from improper cage maintenance.	See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Stomatitis (Mouth Rot)	Inflamed, red lips Red Bumps around the mouth Mucus in the mouth	A bacterial infection that can be cause from an untreated injury to the mouth or improper cage maintenance.	See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Dehydration	Dry Scales	Caused from the humidity being too low.	Mist the substrate in the tank twice daily to raise the humidity
Scale Rot	Large blisters filled with fluid	Usually cause from unsanitary living condition. If left untreated the blisters could rupture, leaving and open wound susceptible to infection.	See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Mites	Lifted scales White specks appearing in patches Black spots that move	Mites are an eight-legged blood sucking organism that can carry and transmit diseases from one reptile to another. Can be cause from living in unsanitary conditions.	Remove everything from the enclosure, replace furniture with cardboard. Repeat daily. Spray the skink with a reptile safe mite solution, every three days. Repeat until the mites are gone.
Metabolic Bone Disease	Lumps on the legs, vertical column of the back and tail Twitches, ticks, spasms or tremors. Soft or swollen jaw. Jerky movements	MBD is the weakening of bone, caused by an imbalance or deficiency in vitamin D3, calcium and phosphorus.	Moderate cases can be treated with the proper diet, temperatures, UVB and a good calcium supplement. More severe cases require vet treatment that may include calcium and vitamin A/D/E shots administered.
Respiratory Infection	Gasping Wheezing Coughing Heavy breathing Mucus around the eye, nose & mouth	Respiratory infections may result from improper temperatures, humidity and poor cage conditions	See your herp vet

Blue Tongue Skink Diet

Blue Tongue Skinks are omnivorous, meaning they eat both meat/protein and plant matter.

Below you will find a list of foods that can/should be fed and how often.

Feeding ratio for juveniles should consist of 40% greens/vegetables, 50% meat/protein and 10% fruit.
Juveniles should be offered food every 1-2 days.

Feeding ratio for adults should consist of 50% greens/vegetables, 40% meat/protein and 10% fruit.
Adults should be offered food every 2-4 days.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Recommended Staple	Occasionally Mix in with Staples	Feed Only As A Treat	Never Feed
Greens
Arugula	Basil	Bok Choy	Iceberg Lettuce
Beet Greens	Green Cabbage	Chicory Greens
Collard Greens	Kale	Red Leaf Lettuce
Dandelion Greens	Red Cabbage	Romaine Lettuce
Endive
Escarole
Mustard Greens
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Vegetables
Acorn Squash	Asparagus	Green Peas	Onion
Borage	Beets	Parsnips	Rhubarb
Butternut Squash	Bell Pepper (All Colors)	Snap Peas
Cactus Pad	Broccoli	White Mushrooms
Cactus Pear (Prickly Pear)	Brussel Sprouts
Green Beans	Carrots
Hubbard Squash	Cauliflower
Scallop Squash	Celery
Spaghetti Squash	Corn
Summer Squash	Cucumber
	Okra
	Parsley
	Pumpkin
	Radicchio
	Radish
	Rutabaga
	Sweet Potato
	Tomatoes
	Turnip
	Yucca Root
	Zucchini
Fruits
	Apple	Fig	Avocado
	Apricot	Mango
	Bananas	Papaya
	Blackberries	Raspberries
	Blueberries
	Cantaloupe
	Cherries
	Cranberries
	Grapes
	Guava
	Honeydew Melon
	Kiwi
	Nectarines
	Peaches
	Pears
	Pineapple
	Plums
	Pomegranate
	Star Fruit
	Strawberries
	Watermelon
Meat/ Protein
Dubia Roaches	Cat Food (Canned)	Butterworms	Anything Wild Caught
Dog Food (Canned)	Crickets	Ground Beef (Lean)
Earthworms	Mealworms	Chicken Breast (Cooked)
Horn Worm	Pinky Mouse	Chicken Liver (Cooked)
Silkworms		Phoenixworms
Snails		Superworms
		Waxworms

Notes On Feeding

Be sure to shred or finely chop vegetables prior to feeding.

When feeding canned dog or cat food, read the nutritional information on the can. Choose a food that doesn't have any by-products. Meat mixed with vegetables is best.

Never leave uneaten live prey in your skinks tank overnight. They will crawl on and possible bite your skink, possibly even causing injury.

Always keep a large water bowl with fresh water in the tank.