Gargoyle Gecko Care Guide

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Gargoyle Gecko. If cared for properly, gargoyle gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new gargoyle gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a gargoyle gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a gargoyle gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Juvenile Setup

Housing Your Gargoyle Gecko

Gargoyle geckos are arboreal, meaning they live up off the ground and in trees and bushes. So having plenty of space to climb is more important than having a lot of floor space.

I would recommend a Glass Exo Terra Enclosure.

Never keep more than one male gargoyle gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Adult Setup

Setting up a Bio-Active Gargoyle Gecko Enclosure (video is of my crested gecko but would be the same for a gargoyle gecko)

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a gargoyle gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many gargoyle gecko keepers use coconut husk but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Gargoyle geckos only require temperatures to be 74 to 78 degrees, so room temperature is fine for these guys, but never let your enclosure get above 78 degrees.

Lighting

Gargoyle geckos  do not require any special lighting because they are nocturnal lizards. They do not require any UVB lighting but in the wild, they are subject to some filtered UVB while they are sleeping. It is my opinion that exposing them to a small amount of UVB during the day will only improve their health. It certainly won't hurt them. You can use a low wattage bulb for a few hours a day.

Furniture

Items to include in your gargoyle gecko enclosure are:

Hides or Cork Rounds stood on end make excellent places for sleeping.

Reptile Ledge for food and water. Your gargoyle gecko will feel more secure if they can eat up off the ground.

Branches and limbs for climbing

Plants, lots of plants, for climbing and hiding.

Keeping your Gargoyle Gecko Hydrated

Gargoyle geckos do not require a lot of humidity but they do require some. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water in the enclosure and misting them a couple times a day should suffice.

Diet

Gargoyle geckos diet mainly consists pre-packaged, powdered food that is simply mixed with water. There are several brands out there but I recommend Repashy. There are some other brands that are getting good reviews but so far mine eat the Repashy the best.

You can also give your gargoyle gecko crickets once a week. Be sure they are no bigger than the space between the geckos eyes.

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your gargoyle gecko by biting it while it sleeps.

Crested Gecko Care Sheet

                                                

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Crested Gecko. If cared for properly, Crested gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new crested gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a crested gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a crested gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Crested Gecko

Crested geckos are arboreal, meaning they live up off the ground and in trees and bushes. So having plenty of space to climb is more important than having a lot of floor space.

I would recommend a Glass Exo Terra Enclosure.

Never keep more than one male crested gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Setting up a Bio-Active Crested Gecko Enclosure

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a crested gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many crested gecko keepers use coconut husk but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Crested geckos only require temperatures to be 74 to 78 degrees, so room temperature is fine for these guys, but never let your enclosure get above 78 degrees.

Lighting

Crested geckos  do not require any special lighting because they are nocturnal lizards. They do not require any UVB lighting but in the wild, they are subject to some filtered UVB while they are sleeping. It is my opinion that exposing them to a small amount of UVB during the day will only improve their health. It certainly won't hurt them. You can use a low wattage bulb for a few hours a day.

Furniture

Items to include in your crested gecko enclosure are:

Hides or Cork Rounds stood on end make excellent places for sleeping.

Reptile Ledge for food and water. Your crested gecko will feel more secure if they can eat up off the ground.

Branches and limbs for climbing

Plants, lots of plants, for climbing and hiding.

Keeping your Crested Gecko Hydrated

Crested geckos do not require a lot of humidity but they do require some. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water in the enclosure and misting them a couple times a day should suffice.

Diet

Crested geckos diet mainly consists pre-packaged, powdered food that is simply mixed with water. There are several brands out there but I recommend Repashy. There are some other brands that are getting good reviews but so far mine eat the Repashy the best.

You can also give your crested gecko crickets once a week. Be sure they are no bigger than the space between the geckos eyes.

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your crested gecko by biting it while it sleeps.

For a Crested Gecko Owners Manual Click Here

Fat-Tailed Gecko Care Sheet

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Fat-Tailed Gecko. If cared for properly, fat tail gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new fat-tailed gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a fat-tailed gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a fat-tailed gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Fat-Tailed Gecko

Fat-tailed geckos do not require a large enclosure but it does need to be large enough to maintain a good temperature gradient, for thermoregulation purposes. There must be a hot side and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

I would recommend a glass Reptile enclosure or aquarium.

Never keep more than one male fat-tailed gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a fat-tailed gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many fat tail gecko keepers use sand but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Fat-tailed geckos require the surface temperature on the hot side of the tank to be 90 degrees and cool side of the tank to be 75 to low 80's degrees.

It's best to provide the heat source from under the tank rather than above so using and under the tank Heat Pad is the most appropriate heat source. Heat Tape is another suitable option.

Lighting

Fat-tailed geckos require 10-12 hours of exposure to light but be careful not to use a light that will overheat the tank. Because they are nocturnal lizards, they do not require any UVB lighting. 

Furniture

Items to include in your fat-tailed gecko enclosure are:

At least two Hides or Caves. One should be kept moist with wet paper towels or Moss at all times to aid in shedding and should be kept on the cool side of the tank. A second hide should be kept on the warm side.

Shallow water bowl

Temperature Gauge

Keeping your Fat-Tailed Gecko Hydrated

Fat-tailed geckos come from a dry environment but will still need some water and humidity. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water should suffice.

Diet

Fat-tailed geckos diet mainly consists of crickets and mealworms.

Other insects that can be fed include, wax worms and silkworms

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your fat-tailed gecko by biting it.

Mealworms are feed in a Mealworm Dish and will not be able to escape so it's fine to leave them in the tank.

Supplements

Multivitamin

You can add vitamins to you fat-tailed geckos diet by gut loading your crickets. You can also dust their crickets with a multivitamin just prior to feeding the crickets to your fat-tailed gecko.

Calcium

Calcium is very important to you fat-tailed geckos diet. There are a couple of ways to add calcium into their diet. You can dust their crickets prior to feeding, or you can put a small bowl with a pinch of calcium powder inside the tank.

Leopard Gecko Care Sheet

                                            

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Leopard Gecko. If cared for properly, leopard gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new leopard gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a leopard gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a leopard gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos do not require a large enclosure but it does need to be large enough to maintain a good temperature gradient, for thermoregulation purposes. There must be a hot side and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

I would recommend a glass Reptile enclosure or aquarium.

Never keep more than one male leopard gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a leopard gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many leopard gecko keepers use sand but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Leopard geckos require the surface temperature on the hot side of the tank to be 90 degrees and cool side of the tank to be 70's to low 80's degrees.

It's best to provide the heat source from under the tank rather than above so using and under the tank Heat Pad is the most appropriate heat source. Heat Tape is another suitable option.

Lighting

Leopard geckos require 10-12 hours of exposure to light but be careful not to use a light that will overheat the tank. Because they are nocturnal lizards, they do not require any UVB lighting. 

Furniture

Items to include in your leopard gecko enclosure are:

At least two Hides or Caves. One should be kept moist with wet paper towels or Moss at all times to aid in shedding and should be kept on the cool side of the tank.

Shallow water bowl

Temperature Gauge

Keeping your Leopard Gecko Hydrated

Leopard geckos come from a dry environment but will still need some water and humidity. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water should suffice.

Diet

Leopard geckos diet mainly consists of crickets and mealworms.

Other insects that can be fed include, wax worms and silkworms

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your leopard gecko by biting it.

Mealworms are feed in a Mealworm Dish and will not be able to escape so it's fine to leave them in the tank.

Supplements

Multivitamin

You can add vitamins to you leopard geckos diet by gut loading your crickets. You can also dust their crickets with a multivitamin just prior to feeding the crickets to your leopard gecko.

Calcium

Calcium is very important to you leopard geckos diet. There are a couple of ways to add calcium into their diet. You can dust their crickets prior to feeding, or you can put a small bowl with a pinch of calcium powder inside the tank. The gecko will eat the calcium as it needs it.


For a complete guide on Leopard Gecko care click here

Meet My Leopard Geckos