Sunday, August 27, 2017

Blue Tongue Skink Shopping List

If you have decided on a Blue Tongue Skink as your new pet reptile, then you will need to gather up all the items you will need to get an enclosure set up, prior to bring home your new friend.

Here, I have put together a shopping list of the basic items you will need to get started:


Necessary Basic Items



Size Appropriate Enclosure

Substrate - Reptile Carpet (recommended)

Light Fixture

UVB/Heat Bulb

Reptile Hides - Several

Branches

Plants

Food and Water Bowls

Temperature and Humidity Gauges

Water Conditioner

Calcium Supplement

Multivitamin Supplement

Spray Bottle for Misting

Varity of food items:

Greens, Vegetables, Fruit
Insects - Mealworms, Superworms, Waxworms, Silkworms, Butterworms
Meat - Cooked chicken, beef, Turkey, Canned cat food, small mice


Additional Items to Consider

These items are not necessarily must have items but they do make for more convenience:

Power strip with Timer for Lights

Temperature Controller

Automatic Misting System

F10 Disinfectant



I hope this list gets you and your new Blue Tongue Skink off to a great start!
Good luck and enjoy!

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Sunday, August 13, 2017

Vietnamese Mossy Frog Care Sheet




Vietnamese Mossy Frogs are experts when it comes to camouflage. Due to their coloring and unique skin texture, it can be difficult to see them when they are chilling on a tree or in vegetation on the ground near a stream, because they look like a clump of moss, especially when they have their eyes closed.

These frogs are relatively rare and can be hard to come by. If you do get lucky enough to locate some, you will pay an average of $100 a piece for them. They are actually a protected species in their native land of Vietnam.

Mossy frogs spend a lot of time in one place but at times can be very active as well, especially at feeding time. They sometimes remind me of a cat getting ready to pounce on a mouse. I've seen them jump from the top of one end of the tank, to the bottom at the opposite end of the tank to get a cricket!

As long as you understand their needs, the are not very difficult to care.




Housing Your Mossy Frog


If you want to keep your Mossy Frog happy and healthy, you should try to simulate their natural habitat as closely as possible.

The size tank you choose should be based on how many frogs you intend to have. You should allow 4 gallons of space per frog as their average size is 2 - 2 1/2 inches, and they are rather active at times. This will give the frogs plenty of space without being on top of each other. The videos below show a 20 gallon long tank that houses 5 frogs.



Tank Maintenance Video

Mossy Frog Care Video



Mossy frogs are semi-aquatic and should be supplied with both land and water of equal parts. Your land area should slope down into the shallow water side of the tank in order to make it easy for the frogs to make their way out of the water. The water side of the tank should be no more than a few inches deep. The frogs prefer to sit in water with a moving current, so you will need to have a pump, filter or waterfall that will simulate a running stream.


In my tank, shown above, I chose to split the land area and the water area into equal parts. In the center of the tank I installed a plexi-glass with aquarium sealant to divide water from land. For the land side, I installed a false bottom for drainage purposes and a layer of organic dirt and some moss. 

The left side of the tank, the water side, has a filter and waterfall in the back that creates a current that flows around to the front of the tank and a piece of Mopani wood to slow the current before it get to the land area. This gives the frogs the choice of calm water or current.

The tank the videos above is a great setup for juvenile frogs because, the juveniles tend to spend the majority of their time up off the ground when they are not in the water. The adults tend to migrate more to the land and water areas. For this reason, you will need to plan on providing a larger, longer tank for adults.



Water Quality


Be sure to only use distilled water or tap water that has been treated with a water conditioner such as Reptisafe

These frogs tend to do better when you do partial water changes, rather than draining the tank and refilling. Simple use and aquarium vacuum once a week to remove half the water, then replace.




Temperature and Lighting


Mossy frogs do not have any special requirements as far as temperature and lighting. They are perfectly fine with room temperature. I chose to provide lighting simply for esthetic reasons.

A couple things to keep in mind if you plan on using a light; be care not to use a light that is going to raise the temperature more that a degrees or two, you don't want to overheat your frogs, and only install the light along the back of the tank or over the end of the tank that you will not be feeding the frogs at. If they stare into the light while hunting their prey, it could damage their eyesight.


Filter


In order to keep the water fresh and clean, you will need to install An in the water filter. Mossy frogs prefer to relax in  water with a current. Most filters you will find are rather tall, so it's simple to add some rocks in front of the filter so the water flows down and creates a current. The steeper the rocks are, the faster the current. Be care though, you don't want a current that is so strong the frogs can't sit still in it.  

Referring back to the photo of my tank, you can see the method I used. I stacked the large flat rocks to create a running waterfall, then I installed a piece of Mopani Wood to obstruct the water flow before it reached the land area. Mopani wood works very well in this type of tank because it is heavy and will just sit on the bottom of the tank, rather than float.


Tank Furnishings


You will want to provide at least one hide for your frogs. Sometimes they just want to have a little privacy. In my tank, there is a climbing log on the land side that is hollow, so it serves two purposes, one as a hide and two, as a climbing log.

Mossy frogs do like to climb and they seem to enjoy pouncing on their prey from above, so you will need to include plants, vines and logs for them to perch on.


Diet


The Mossy frog diet will mainly consist of small crickets. Make sure the crickets you provide are no larger than the space between their eyes. This will prevent a possible choking hazard. Offer 3-4 crickets per frog, three to four times a week. A couple of times a month, you will want to provide a different food source for variety such as, wax worms, earth worms cut into small pieces and black worms. The worms will need to be fed from a shallow dish. Do not drop them into the tank or water.


Supplements


Your frogs are what they eat so be sure to provide them with good nutrition. You can dust their insects with a high quality nutritional supplement or you can gut load the insects with a highly nutritious diet such as Fluker's High-Calcium Cricket Diet  which is what I use.


In Conclusion:


Vietnamese Mossy Frogs are a bit complex to set up but, once they are set up, are relatively easy to care for. With the proper maintenance and diet, they will provide you with many years of enjoyment.

Sunday, August 6, 2017

Blue Tongue Skink Cage Maintenance

Proper cage maintenance plays an important role in keeping your blue tongue skink healthy. Keeping your skink in a clean healthy environment will virtually eliminate many of the health issues skinks are susceptible to such as, parasites, stomatitis, mites, scale rot and respiratory infections.


Daily Spot Cleaning

Simply use toilet paper or paper towels to remove fecal matter and the substrate surrounding it. If you have a juvenile skink, then you probably already know, they seem to enjoy showing off their artwork by leaving you poop murals almost on a daily basis. In this case, you can use hot water with a little soap to clean, but be sure to rinse the area very well.

You can also use a product called F10 SC. This is a disinfectant used by veterinarians and is safe for all animals, including reptiles. It kills all types of bacteria, fungi and spores. In fact, this is what I have been using for several years and highly recommend it. It is a safe and effective way to disinfect your skinks enclosure without any fear of leaving harmful residue behind, as long as you dilute it correctly. I keep a spray bottle of the diluted F10 SC solution and a roll of paper towels in every room I have animals in, just for convenience.



Monthly Cage Maintenance


Once a month or so, you will need to break down the entire enclosure and give it a thorough cleaning. Remove all furniture, food and water bowls and substrate. The easiest way I have found to remove the substrate is to just vacuum it out with a shop vac. 

Clean the tank with hot soapy water and rinse well. Be sure not to leave any soapy residue behind. Disinfect with F10 SC if you have it. Many people use a mild bleach/water mixture to disinfect but you have to be very diligent in rinsing if you choose to go this route. Be sure there isn't any smell of the bleach left in the tank before you put you skink back inside.

Scrub all furnishings prior to replacing them as well. You may find that some of your furnishing can simply be put in the dishwasher, even the rocks. You might want to give them a quick rinse before hand.




Schedule Maintenance


The easiest way to remember to do cage maintenance is to put yourself on a schedule, and stick to it.

For daily cleaning, pick a time that you know will work for you every day. Maybe you are an early riser and want to do your cleaning first thing in the morning before leaving the house or maybe evenings work better for you. Which ever it is, pick a time and make it part of your daily routine. If you clean at the same time everyday, it will just become habit.

For monthly cage breakdown, choose a day of the month, whether it be the 1st, 15th or the 30th, break the enclosure down on the same day every month. Then you won't have to try to remember when the last cleaning took place.

Another easy way to remember when it's time for a complete breakdown is to clean after each shed, which would be every 4-6 weeks, and is fine as long as you are doing daily cage maintenance.



In Conclusion

Your blue tongue skink is relying on you 100% when it comes to its health. It doesn't matter if you are tired, busy, sick or just feeling lazy, it is your responsibility to keep your skink happy and healthy. Get yourself into a routine that works for you and your skink, and stick to it.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care

Saturday, August 5, 2017

Common Blue Tongue Skink Health Issues

Is My Blue Tongue Skink Sick?

If you notice some changes in your blue tongue skinks behavior or appearance, there may be a medical reason for it.

Below your will find a list of the most common health issues that can affect a blue tongue skink.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care



Health Issue Symptoms Description How to Correct the Problem
Raw Nose Irritated
Raw
Bleeding Nose
Typically found in wild-caught skinks. Caused from rubbing the sides of tank. Cover three sides of the tank so help the skink feel more secure.
Check to make the heat and humidity levels are correct.
Shedding Problems Stuck shed on Toes, Mouth, Tail, Lips and ears Low humidity can cause shedding problems on some areas of the skink and may build up over time. If left untreated, can cause infection and permanent damage. Try bathing the skink to soften the  shed.
Use your fingernails to gently remove stuck shed.
Parasites Tiny white worms seen in fecal matter Usually isn't a problem in captive bred skinks. Wild -caught skinks may have them when you purchase the animal. Also caused from improper cage maintenance. See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Stomatitis (Mouth Rot) Inflamed, red lips
Red Bumps around the mouth
Mucus in the mouth
A bacterial infection that can be cause from an untreated injury to the mouth or improper cage maintenance. See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Dehydration Dry Scales Caused from the humidity being too low. Mist the substrate in the tank twice daily to raise the humidity
Scale Rot Large blisters filled with fluid Usually cause from unsanitary living condition. If left untreated the blisters could rupture, leaving and open wound susceptible to infection. See your herp vet for a fecal exam and medication.
Mites Lifted scales
White specks appearing in patches
Black spots that move
Mites are an eight-legged blood sucking organism that can carry and transmit diseases from one reptile to another. Can be cause from living in unsanitary conditions. Remove everything from the enclosure, replace furniture with cardboard. Repeat daily.
Spray the skink with a reptile safe mite solution, every three days.
Repeat until the mites are gone.
Metabolic Bone Disease Lumps on the legs, vertical column of the back and tail
Twitches, ticks, spasms or tremors.
Soft or swollen jaw.
Jerky movements
MBD is the weakening of bone, caused by an imbalance or deficiency in vitamin D3, calcium and phosphorus. Moderate cases can be treated with the proper diet, temperatures, UVB and a good calcium supplement.
More severe cases require vet treatment that may include calcium and vitamin A/D/E shots administered.
Respiratory Infection Gasping
Wheezing
Coughing
Heavy breathing
Mucus around the eye, nose & mouth
Respiratory infections may result from improper temperatures, humidity and poor cage conditions See your herp vet



Blue Tongue Skink Diet

Blue Tongue Skinks are omnivorous, meaning they eat both meat/protein and plant matter.

Below you will find a list of foods that can/should be fed and how often.

Feeding ratio for juveniles should consist of 40% greens/vegetables, 50% meat/protein and 10% fruit.
Juveniles should be offered food every 1-2 days.

Feeding ratio for adults should consist of 50% greens/vegetables, 40% meat/protein and 10% fruit.
Adults should be offered food every 2-4 days.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care



Recommended Staple Occasionally Mix in with Staples Feed Only As A Treat Never Feed
Greens
Arugula Basil Bok Choy Iceberg Lettuce
Beet Greens Green Cabbage Chicory Greens
Collard Greens Kale Red Leaf Lettuce
Dandelion Greens Red Cabbage Romaine Lettuce
Endive
Escarole
Mustard Greens
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Vegetables
Acorn Squash Asparagus Green Peas Onion
Borage Beets Parsnips Rhubarb
Butternut Squash Bell Pepper (All Colors) Snap Peas
Cactus Pad Broccoli White Mushrooms
Cactus Pear (Prickly Pear) Brussel Sprouts
Green Beans Carrots
Hubbard Squash Cauliflower
Scallop Squash Celery
Spaghetti Squash Corn
Summer Squash Cucumber
Okra
Parsley
Pumpkin
Radicchio
Radish
Rutabaga
Sweet Potato
Tomatoes
Turnip
Yucca Root
Zucchini
Fruits
Apple Fig Avocado
Apricot Mango
Bananas Papaya
Blackberries Raspberries
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Cherries
Cranberries
Grapes
Guava
Honeydew Melon
Kiwi
Nectarines
Peaches
Pears
Pineapple
Plums
Pomegranate
Star Fruit
Strawberries
Watermelon
Meat/ Protein
Dubia Roaches Cat Food (Canned) Butterworms Anything Wild Caught
Dog Food (Canned) Crickets Ground Beef (Lean)
Earthworms Mealworms Chicken Breast (Cooked)
Horn Worm Pinky Mouse Chicken Liver (Cooked)
Silkworms Phoenixworms
Snails Superworms
Waxworms




Notes On Feeding


Be sure to shred or finely chop vegetables prior to feeding.

When feeding canned dog or cat food, read the nutritional information on the can. Choose a food that doesn't have any by-products. Meat mixed with vegetables is best.

Never leave uneaten live prey in your skinks tank overnight. They will crawl on and possible bite your skink, possibly even causing injury.

Always keep a large water bowl with fresh water in the tank.