Red Ackies Monitor Care Sheet

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Red Ackies Monitor. If cared for properly, red Ackies Monitors can live 15 to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new Red Ackies Monitor?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a Red Ackies Monitor?

Can you afford the upkeep of a Red Ackies Monitor?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Red Ackies Monitor

Red Ackies Monitors are very active lizards and therefore require a fairly large enclosure in order to give them space to explore and maintain a good temperature gradient. There must be a hot side for basking and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

Minimum Enclosure sizes:

48" x 24" x 24" for 1 Adult
30" x 18" x 36" for 1 Baby

The more space the better and always use a wooden enclosure. Glass enclosures, such as, an aquarium, will not hold in the heat or moisture, nor will it hold the amount of substrate necessary to house these monitors properly.  Screen lids are not recommended so be sure to provide adequate ventilation by installing an air vent on both sides of the enclosure to maintain good air flow. 

Substrate

The natural habitat of the Red Ackies Monitor is the scrublands of mainly Western Australia, the Northern Territory and Queensland. They may come from a hot climate, but that does not mean they live on sand. They actually live near rocky outcroppings that have plenty of cracks and crevices they can retreat into for safety or to escape the heat.

The best substrate you can give a Red Ackies Monitor is just plain old dirt. for babies you can use paper towels or newspaper in order to monitor their food intake and feces output. They do enjoy burrowing so for adults, you will need to provide an 8-12 inch layer of substrate.

Other substrate options include a 50 - 50 mixture of non-toxic play sand and pesticide free dirt or lightly compressed Eco Earth (coconut fiber).

Heating

Red Ackies Monitors require a wide temperature gradient. The surface temperature at the basking spot should be 130 – 150 degrees for adults and approximately 120 degrees for babies. The cool side should range from the mid 70's to  80 degrees, no higher. Night time basking temperatures should be 110 - 120 degrees. These temperatures can be achieved by using a brooder bulb or halogen bulb, pointing straight down, directly over the basking spot. Ceramic heaters work well to keep night time temperatures up. For more control over heat, use a fixture with a dimmer switch built in or wire the light directly to a dimmer switch. Also, make sure the basking spot is the same approximate size as the lizard.

Lighting

Lighting requirements for Red Ackies are not of the same importance as they are with other reptiles. You can offer a day/night lighting cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off or leave them on 24/7. If you are leaving them on 24/7 and you notice your monitor seems a little stressed, and out in the open during the night, switch to a 12 cycle.

There is some debate on whether Red Ackies need UVB lighting. Some research shows, with the proper diet, a Red Ackies will get all the D3 and calcium it requires. It is my opinion, that UVB can be beneficial and it's better to err on the side of caution and provide UVB lighting, it can't hurt.

Furniture

Red Ackies Monitors, being the active and inquisitive lizards they are, will utilize every bit of space you give them. Fill their enclosure with plenty of things they can climb on, over and under. Use the height of the tank as well as a good portion of the floor space.

Many Red Ackies Monitor keepers build a Retes stack directly under the backing bulb. This allows for many temperature choices for your monitor.

Include; logs, branches, cork bark, plants and rocks (rocks should be large enough that your monitor cannot move them, so as to eliminate any risk of injury).

Also, be sure to include a water bowl large enough for the monitor lay in. It may or may not use it, but it's best to give it the option.

Humidity

The humidity in your Red Ackies enclosure should range between 50% - 60%. Anything higher could promote bacteria growth and lead to health problems, anything lower could cause shedding problems and other health issues. Lightly misting the substrate a couple times per day or a good soaking once a week, should keep the humidity at the appropriate levels.

Using a digital hydrometer inside the enclosure will help you monitor the humidity and ensure you are meeting the needs of your Red Ackies.

Diet

Red Ackies Monitors are carnivores, meaning they only eat meat. Their diet should consist of 80% - 85% insects and 15% - 20% whole prey items such as, pinky mice.

Insects that can be fed include, dubia roaches (recommended) mealworms, supperworms (as a treat), crickets.

Adults should be fed daily. Dust insects with Calcium with D3 every other day unless you are providing UVB, then dust 3 - 4 times per week. Dust with a multi-vitamin on the days between.

Young monitors should be fed daily as well. Dust insects with calcium with D3 daily unless you are providing UVB, then dust every other day.