Glass Tree Frog Care

Glass tree frogs are named such, due to their semitransparent skin, mainly on their belly, which allows for the viewing of some of their internal organs. There are over 100 different species of the glass tree frog. Type of species will determine just how much of the organs you will be able to see. On some species, you will also be able to see their bones.

Glass tree frogs are not only Nocturnal and arboreal, they are also riparian, meaning they live near streams. It is important to put a great deal of planning and care into setting up their captive environment, so for this reason, I would not recommend this frog to a beginning frog keeper.

Housing Your Glass Tree Frog

If you want to keep your Glass Tree Frog happy and healthy, you should try to simulate their natural habitat as closely as possible, as shown in the following video:

The size enclosure you choose should be based on how many frogs you intend to have. You should allow 4 gallons of space per frog as their average size ranges from 1 - 3 inches. This will give the frogs plenty of space without being on top of each other. The height of the enclosure should be one and half times the width and depth of the tank. A 12 x 12 x 18 would do fine for 1 -2 frogs and an 18 x 18 x 24 would do well for 3 - 4. Whatever tank you decide to use, be sure it has a screen top. Proper ventilation is extremely import for glass tree frogs.

In the wild, glass tree frogs live near running streams, though they are not semi-aquatic frogs, they do spend a small amount of time just sitting in the water enjoying the moving current. To simulate their natural environment, you will need to have a pump, filter or waterfall in order to simulate a running stream. Limit the stream to 1/3 of the bottom space.

2/3's of the bottom space will need to be land area. This can be achieved in several different ways. In my opinion, the best way to do this, is to install a divider between the water and land, using plexi-glass and aquarium sealant. This will make it much easier on you when it comes to maintenance. Another way would be to use large rocks to divide the land and water, with some type of drainage layer under the substrate on the land side.

Substrate

For substrate, I would recommend using plain old dirt or garden soil, that can be purchased at any home supply store. Be sure to buy organic, fertilizer and pesticide free soil. In order to help keep humidity levels up, cover the soil with moss. I suggest a pillow moss. If you choose to use sphagnum moss, be sure to smash it down flat. Glass tree frogs hunt by pouncing on their pray. Though they are incredibly accurate, you do not want to risk them getting the moss caught in their mouth along with their food.

Humidity

Glass tree frogs are native to tropical area,s therefore require high humidity in their captive environments. Humidity levels should be kept in the range of 70 - 80%. Having a running stream in the enclosure will contribute to the humidity levels but will not be enough to maintain the proper range. In order to keep the humidity levels up, you will need to mist the enclosure a couple times per day.

Lighting

In order to maintain a healthy ecosystem, you will need to provide day/night cycle for your glass tree frogs. 12 hours on and 12 hours off is a good place to start. Depending on whether or not you choose to have live plants in the enclosure, will determine what type of bulb you will need to use. Be careful not to use a bulb that will overheat the enclosure. Glass tree frogs do not require any special heating. They are fine at room temperature, provided the temperature in your house remains in the mid 70's.

Furnishings

Due to their arboreal nature, glass tree frogs require plenty of branches, vines and plants to climb on. Whether you choose live or fake plants, be sure and provide broad leaf plants. Glass tree frogs like to sit on the leaves and spy out their prey from above. You will also need to include some foliage on the ground level as well. This will provide your frog with some security. A small cork round works well for a hide as well.

Diet

Glass tree frogs, despite their size, have very large appetites. When they are babies and juveniles, they will need to be fed fruit flies, a lot of fruit flies. As they grow, they can be fed size appropriate crickets. Size appropriate meaning, no larger than the space between their eyes.

In Conclusion

Glass tree frogs are very fascinating creatures but, do not expect to see much of them. They are very shy and typically only come out when all the lights are out. You might get lucky every now and then and see them come out at dawn to start hunting but, if they see you, they will quickly find a safe place to hide.

Red Ackies Monitor Care Sheet

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Red Ackies Monitor. If cared for properly, red Ackies Monitors can live 15 to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new Red Ackies Monitor?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a Red Ackies Monitor?

Can you afford the upkeep of a Red Ackies Monitor?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Red Ackies Monitor

Red Ackies Monitors are very active lizards and therefore require a fairly large enclosure in order to give them space to explore and maintain a good temperature gradient. There must be a hot side for basking and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

Minimum Enclosure sizes:

48" x 24" x 24" for 1 Adult
30" x 18" x 36" for 1 Baby

The more space the better and always use a wooden enclosure. Glass enclosures, such as, an aquarium, will not hold in the heat or moisture, nor will it hold the amount of substrate necessary to house these monitors properly.  Screen lids are not recommended so be sure to provide adequate ventilation by installing an air vent on both sides of the enclosure to maintain good air flow. 

Substrate

The natural habitat of the Red Ackies Monitor is the scrublands of mainly Western Australia, the Northern Territory and Queensland. They may come from a hot climate, but that does not mean they live on sand. They actually live near rocky outcroppings that have plenty of cracks and crevices they can retreat into for safety or to escape the heat.

The best substrate you can give a Red Ackies Monitor is just plain old dirt. for babies you can use paper towels or newspaper in order to monitor their food intake and feces output. They do enjoy burrowing so for adults, you will need to provide an 8-12 inch layer of substrate.

Other substrate options include a 50 - 50 mixture of non-toxic play sand and pesticide free dirt or lightly compressed Eco Earth (coconut fiber).

Heating

Red Ackies Monitors require a wide temperature gradient. The surface temperature at the basking spot should be 130 – 150 degrees for adults and approximately 120 degrees for babies. The cool side should range from the mid 70's to  80 degrees, no higher. Night time basking temperatures should be 110 - 120 degrees. These temperatures can be achieved by using a brooder bulb or halogen bulb, pointing straight down, directly over the basking spot. Ceramic heaters work well to keep night time temperatures up. For more control over heat, use a fixture with a dimmer switch built in or wire the light directly to a dimmer switch. Also, make sure the basking spot is the same approximate size as the lizard.

Lighting

Lighting requirements for Red Ackies are not of the same importance as they are with other reptiles. You can offer a day/night lighting cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off or leave them on 24/7. If you are leaving them on 24/7 and you notice your monitor seems a little stressed, and out in the open during the night, switch to a 12 cycle.

There is some debate on whether Red Ackies need UVB lighting. Some research shows, with the proper diet, a Red Ackies will get all the D3 and calcium it requires. It is my opinion, that UVB can be beneficial and it's better to err on the side of caution and provide UVB lighting, it can't hurt.

Furniture

Red Ackies Monitors, being the active and inquisitive lizards they are, will utilize every bit of space you give them. Fill their enclosure with plenty of things they can climb on, over and under. Use the height of the tank as well as a good portion of the floor space.

Many Red Ackies Monitor keepers build a Retes stack directly under the backing bulb. This allows for many temperature choices for your monitor.

Include; logs, branches, cork bark, plants and rocks (rocks should be large enough that your monitor cannot move them, so as to eliminate any risk of injury).

Also, be sure to include a water bowl large enough for the monitor lay in. It may or may not use it, but it's best to give it the option.

Humidity

The humidity in your Red Ackies enclosure should range between 50% - 60%. Anything higher could promote bacteria growth and lead to health problems, anything lower could cause shedding problems and other health issues. Lightly misting the substrate a couple times per day or a good soaking once a week, should keep the humidity at the appropriate levels.

Using a digital hydrometer inside the enclosure will help you monitor the humidity and ensure you are meeting the needs of your Red Ackies.

Diet

Red Ackies Monitors are carnivores, meaning they only eat meat. Their diet should consist of 80% - 85% insects and 15% - 20% whole prey items such as, pinky mice.

Insects that can be fed include, dubia roaches (recommended) mealworms, supperworms (as a treat), crickets.

Adults should be fed daily. Dust insects with Calcium with D3 every other day unless you are providing UVB, then dust 3 - 4 times per week. Dust with a multi-vitamin on the days between.

Young monitors should be fed daily as well. Dust insects with calcium with D3 daily unless you are providing UVB, then dust every other day.