Setting Up a Bearded Dragon Tank on a Budget

Keeping just one reptile usually doesn't cost a great deal of money to maintain, after the initial set-up but, if you have multiple reptiles to care for, they can become very costly to care for properly. I am speaking from experience because I happen to have many, many exotic animals in my care. Whether it's considered a good habit or bad habit, I'm in the habit of taking in neglected, abused and unwanted animals. Many of the animals require immediate medical, which if you've been to an exotic veterinarian, you know is very expensive, so I find mind self spending hundreds of dollars every month for vet bills, housing, food, vitamins, lighting, heating, etc....

If you are like me, you want to give your pet the best home possible. Not only do you want to give them the basics, but you want to give them a happy life, which means going that extra mile, spending that extra cash. Well, I have some ways to save you some of your hard earned money but still give you the means of giving your retile everything your heart desires.

f you have a lizard that likes to climb, for example, a bearded dragon. you not only want to give them a comfortable living space, but and interesting one as well, and that means lots of things to climb around on.

This is a picture of one of my bearded dragon enclosures. I'm going to use this as an example because almost everything in this enclosure was found, made or purchased for very little money, then modified to fit my needs. Even the stand that it is sitting on was made out of scrap wood.

Branches and rocks can be found just about any place. I happen to have a neighbor that has a lot of wooded area at the back of his property, and he allows me to brave the mosquitoes anytime I'm on the hunt for something for one of my animals. When I'm out searching for something specific, I make it a habit to pick up other interesting items that I may be able to make use of later on. In the above photo, the rock and the large limb were both found items.

When you use "found" items, you do want to make sure you clean them very well before you put them into the enclosure. I strip all the bark off the branches then clean everything with a mild bleach solution (1 part bleach to 5 parts water), then rinse everything until I can no longer smell the bleach.

In the photo there are several plants, some on the floor and some hanging. Some of them were purchased at yard sales for next to nothing and some were purchased at a dollar tree store for $1 each. The plant sitting in the front is just hot-glue to a rock to keep it standing upright. The one in the back is several different plants that I put together by using a slice of wood from a log, drilling holes in it, and hot-gluing the stems into the holes. These plants are very sturdy and will not fall over if they are climbed on. The hanging plants are mainly pieces of 4 foot vines that I paid $1 each for and cut them to the size I wanted. What is left of the vine can be used in another enclosure.

If you have ever priced backgrounds for your enclosure, you know they are very expensive, but you also know you want to keep your lizard from seeing its own reflection, which means you have to cover the sides of the enclosure. You can see that I have three sides of the enclosure covered and all it cost me, was the ink to print it. All I did was go online and find a few good pictures of a bearded dragons natural habitat, blow them up to the size I needed, print them off a section at a time, then taped them together. My bearded dragon loves it. I catch him staring at it all the time.

You might notice, there is a small pillow in the enclosure as well. Every lizard enjoys a soft place to lay. I made the pillow from a piece of scrap fabric, some packing foam I had saved from something I ordered, and a needle and thread.

I will say that I did purchase the hammock that is hanging in the back corner, but have since learned that I can make one from a wash cloth by cutting it in half, diagonally and putting grommets in the corners. I hang it using the scotch removable hooks. Suction cups never stay stuck for very long anyway, so I use the removable hooks to hang everything.

Also note, I do have reptile carpet on the floor of the enclosure. For me, this is the safest, easiest and most cost effective substrate you can use for most reptiles.

So there you have it! Setting up a reptile enclosure on a budget. You can see you don't have to purchase all the store bought items it takes to give your reptile a nice comfortable, interesting place live.

I hope this helps save you some money and please feel free to leave a comment or question.

Crested Gecko Care Sheet

                                                

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Crested Gecko. If cared for properly, Crested gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new crested gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a crested gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a crested gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Crested Gecko

Crested geckos are arboreal, meaning they live up off the ground and in trees and bushes. So having plenty of space to climb is more important than having a lot of floor space.

I would recommend a Glass Exo Terra Enclosure.

Never keep more than one male crested gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Setting up a Bio-Active Crested Gecko Enclosure

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a crested gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many crested gecko keepers use coconut husk but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Crested geckos only require temperatures to be 74 to 78 degrees, so room temperature is fine for these guys, but never let your enclosure get above 78 degrees.

Lighting

Crested geckos  do not require any special lighting because they are nocturnal lizards. They do not require any UVB lighting but in the wild, they are subject to some filtered UVB while they are sleeping. It is my opinion that exposing them to a small amount of UVB during the day will only improve their health. It certainly won't hurt them. You can use a low wattage bulb for a few hours a day.

Furniture

Items to include in your crested gecko enclosure are:

Hides or Cork Rounds stood on end make excellent places for sleeping.

Reptile Ledge for food and water. Your crested gecko will feel more secure if they can eat up off the ground.

Branches and limbs for climbing

Plants, lots of plants, for climbing and hiding.

Keeping your Crested Gecko Hydrated

Crested geckos do not require a lot of humidity but they do require some. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water in the enclosure and misting them a couple times a day should suffice.

Diet

Crested geckos diet mainly consists pre-packaged, powdered food that is simply mixed with water. There are several brands out there but I recommend Repashy. There are some other brands that are getting good reviews but so far mine eat the Repashy the best.

You can also give your crested gecko crickets once a week. Be sure they are no bigger than the space between the geckos eyes.

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your crested gecko by biting it while it sleeps.

For a Crested Gecko Owners Manual Click Here

Fat-Tailed Gecko Care Sheet

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Fat-Tailed Gecko. If cared for properly, fat tail gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new fat-tailed gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a fat-tailed gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a fat-tailed gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Fat-Tailed Gecko

Fat-tailed geckos do not require a large enclosure but it does need to be large enough to maintain a good temperature gradient, for thermoregulation purposes. There must be a hot side and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

I would recommend a glass Reptile enclosure or aquarium.

Never keep more than one male fat-tailed gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a fat-tailed gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many fat tail gecko keepers use sand but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Fat-tailed geckos require the surface temperature on the hot side of the tank to be 90 degrees and cool side of the tank to be 75 to low 80's degrees.

It's best to provide the heat source from under the tank rather than above so using and under the tank Heat Pad is the most appropriate heat source. Heat Tape is another suitable option.

Lighting

Fat-tailed geckos require 10-12 hours of exposure to light but be careful not to use a light that will overheat the tank. Because they are nocturnal lizards, they do not require any UVB lighting. 

Furniture

Items to include in your fat-tailed gecko enclosure are:

At least two Hides or Caves. One should be kept moist with wet paper towels or Moss at all times to aid in shedding and should be kept on the cool side of the tank. A second hide should be kept on the warm side.

Shallow water bowl

Temperature Gauge

Keeping your Fat-Tailed Gecko Hydrated

Fat-tailed geckos come from a dry environment but will still need some water and humidity. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water should suffice.

Diet

Fat-tailed geckos diet mainly consists of crickets and mealworms.

Other insects that can be fed include, wax worms and silkworms

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your fat-tailed gecko by biting it.

Mealworms are feed in a Mealworm Dish and will not be able to escape so it's fine to leave them in the tank.

Supplements

Multivitamin

You can add vitamins to you fat-tailed geckos diet by gut loading your crickets. You can also dust their crickets with a multivitamin just prior to feeding the crickets to your fat-tailed gecko.

Calcium

Calcium is very important to you fat-tailed geckos diet. There are a couple of ways to add calcium into their diet. You can dust their crickets prior to feeding, or you can put a small bowl with a pinch of calcium powder inside the tank.

Leopard Gecko Care Sheet

                                            

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Leopard Gecko. If cared for properly, leopard gecko can live up to 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new leopard gecko?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a leopard gecko?

Can you afford the upkeep of a leopard gecko?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos do not require a large enclosure but it does need to be large enough to maintain a good temperature gradient, for thermoregulation purposes. There must be a hot side and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

I would recommend a glass Reptile enclosure or aquarium.

Never keep more than one male leopard gecko in a single enclosure. They are territorial and will fight. Housing multiple females together is fine as long as they are similar in size. You may also house a couple of females together with one male as long as they are all of breeding size (45 grams or more).

Substrate

The best substrate you can use for a leopard gecko is Reptile Carpet. You can also use paper towels, butcher paper, tile or newspaper. Many leopard gecko keepers use sand but I personally do not recommend it. It can cause impaction problems, especially in babies and juveniles.

Heating

Leopard geckos require the surface temperature on the hot side of the tank to be 90 degrees and cool side of the tank to be 70's to low 80's degrees.

It's best to provide the heat source from under the tank rather than above so using and under the tank Heat Pad is the most appropriate heat source. Heat Tape is another suitable option.

Lighting

Leopard geckos require 10-12 hours of exposure to light but be careful not to use a light that will overheat the tank. Because they are nocturnal lizards, they do not require any UVB lighting. 

Furniture

Items to include in your leopard gecko enclosure are:

At least two Hides or Caves. One should be kept moist with wet paper towels or Moss at all times to aid in shedding and should be kept on the cool side of the tank.

Shallow water bowl

Temperature Gauge

Keeping your Leopard Gecko Hydrated

Leopard geckos come from a dry environment but will still need some water and humidity. Keeping a small water bowl with fresh water should suffice.

Diet

Leopard geckos diet mainly consists of crickets and mealworms.

Other insects that can be fed include, wax worms and silkworms

If you are feeding crickets, remove any uneaten crickets after a couple of hours. If they are left in the tank, they may annoy your leopard gecko by biting it.

Mealworms are feed in a Mealworm Dish and will not be able to escape so it's fine to leave them in the tank.

Supplements

Multivitamin

You can add vitamins to you leopard geckos diet by gut loading your crickets. You can also dust their crickets with a multivitamin just prior to feeding the crickets to your leopard gecko.

Calcium

Calcium is very important to you leopard geckos diet. There are a couple of ways to add calcium into their diet. You can dust their crickets prior to feeding, or you can put a small bowl with a pinch of calcium powder inside the tank. The gecko will eat the calcium as it needs it.


For a complete guide on Leopard Gecko care click here

Meet My Leopard Geckos

Blue Tongue Skink Care Sheet

                                                               

Things to consider

First and foremost, there are many things you need to consider before getting a Blue Tongued Skink. If cared for properly, blue tongued skinks can live upwards of 20 years in captivity. This is a long term and serious commitment. Ultimately, they will only be able to rely on you to meet their needs.

Do not buy on impulse. Do your research first.

Are you set up for your new blue tongued skink?

Have you located a qualified exotic veterinarian?

Do you have the time to commit to a blue tongued skink?

Can you afford the upkeep of a blue tongued skink?

How do you feel about having live feeder insects in your home?

Housing Your Blue Tongued Skink

Blue tongued skinks require a fairly large enclosure in order to maintain a good temperature gradient. There must be a hot side for basking and a cooler side for them to escape from the heat when they need to.

Acceptable tank sizes for an adult:

24" x 24" x 12"
36" x 18" x 12"

The more floor space the better and always use a screen lid.

Never keep more than one blue tongued skink in an enclosure. They are solitary lizards and no matter if they appear to be getting along, it only takes one bad mood and one good bite to result in one of them losing a limb.

Substrate

The natural habitat of the blue tongued skink is the woodlands and grasslands of northern and eastern Australia. They may come from a hot climate, but that does not make them desert animals.

The best substrate you can give a blue tongued skink is Reptile Carpet or artificial turf. You can also use paper towels or newspaper. They do enjoy burrowing so if you feel like to need to use a substrate they can burrow in, stick to thick aspen shavings, not shredded.

Heating

Blue tongued skinks require a wide temperature gradient. The surface temperature at the basking spot should be 95 – 100 degrees, the cool side should range from the mid 70's to low 80's and the nighttime ambient temperature in the 70's.

Lighting

Blue tongued skinks require a day/night lighting cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off. They also require both UVA and UVB bulbs. 

Furniture

Items to include in your blue tongued skinks enclosure are:

Hides - several

Low branches for climbing and basking. Blue tongued skinks aren't much on climbing.

Large water bowl

Temperature gauge

Humidity gauge

Humidity

The humidity in your blue tongued skinks enclosure should range between 25 and 40%. Anything higher than that could cause bacteria growth and lead to health problems. Keeping a large water bowl in the enclosure should suffice.

Diet

Blue tongued skinks are omnivorous, meaning they eat fruits, vegetables, greens and meat. Their diet should consist of 50% greens and vegetables, 40% meat and 10% fruit.

Insects that can be fed include, mealworms, supperworms, waxworms, silkworms and butterworms.

Greens include, among others, turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens. Never lettuce!

Vegetables include, among others, butternut squash, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, summer squash and such.

Fruits include, among others, mango, papaya, figs and raspberries.

Meats include, cooked  and shredded, lean chicken, beef, turkey, canned cat food and an occasional mouse.

Click here for a complete care guide on Blue Tongue Skink Care